Mangoes are (nearly) back in season, rainfall is eager to meet us, and purple flowers embellish jacaranda trees and the streets beneath them—signs that the year is drawing to a close in Zambia. This occasion will be met with sighs of relief from some and appreciation for the year’s events from others. Irrespective of the varied outcomes, the year’s end calls for some much-needed rest for everyone. If you’re from Lusaka, the temptation to escape to a place with a vast body of water and lots of fresh air is great. However, I would encourage you to give Lusaka a chance this holiday season and indulge in the big and small joys that this gently enchanting city has to offer.
Kabulonga is an ideal neighbourhood to explore in Lusaka; it has an air of mystique, owing to the presence of international organisations, embassies and expats alike. In a sense, it lends itself to a more ‘continental’ energy. As more recreational spaces have mushroomed across the neighbourhood, Kabulonga has slowly morphed into a cosmopolitan enclave of art, culture and cuisine—open to all and ready to be explored and enjoyed. As a self-appointed connoisseur of such niceties, I cannot recommend the neighbourhood enough.
Gallery of Good Taste
Nestled amongst embassies and homes in Kabulonga is 37d Gallery. From the lively and pointed depictions of Zambian life in the work of Mulenga Chafilwa and the thought-provoking, colourful paintings of Lazarina Matuta, to the intricate drawings of Emmanuel Chibaye, 37d pieces together some of the best of what local artists have to offer. Aside from the gallery, the building houses The Rock Café and Jagoda Gems. Greeting you at the entrance is the colourful Zambian-produced jewellery that adorns the Jagoda section of the space. If peckish after taking in the beauty of the art, settle in at the café and order a light bite or a substantial meal in the airy seating area. Each section of the building seamlessly blends into the next, with every inch of the space enhancing the gallery’s overall artistic feel. After a meal or coffee, you may consider purchasing a piece of art on your way out or a more modestly priced print.
A Place for Curiosity
If your foray into Kabulonga falls on the first Saturday of the month, you’re in for a treat. Just across the street from the landmark Kabulonga Boys Secondary School is the Dutch Reformed Church of Zambia, where a monthly food and craft market is held. The gates open at 08:00. A Saturday breakfast date with a few friends led us to wander into the food and craft market. I have faint memories of driving along Kabulonga Road on Saturday mornings as a child and wondering why so many cars lined the streets, and now I know. The market has something for everyone, with items ranging from curios and clothing to books and braai.
Play Hard, Work Harder
This adventure doesn’t have to be all play and no work. Right in what I would consider the heart of Kabulonga is AfricaWorks Lusaka at 4 on Bishops Office Park. This co-working environment is ideal for focused individual work and collaboration amongst teams. With locations across the continent, including Dakar and Cape Town, AfricaWorks offers Lusaka residents an alternative to working from home or a café. Hot-desk memberships start at US$115 per month. The Bishops location offers high-speed internet and around-the-clock access.
Toast to the Sweet Life
Swiftly shifting our focus back to play, a visit to Champagne & Cake promises a little indulgence. The café is an offshoot of Cake Couture, a bakery that I admittedly patronise almost too often. Aside from the delicious pastries and cake, the café’s ambience really steals the show. Parisian wall trim, accents of pink and tall curtains create a sense of elegance in the café, with an eye-catching chandelier completing the look. Here, the inclusion of champagne adds a celebratory touch to the everyday ritual of a coffee run. It is another addition to Lusaka’s growing choice of aesthetically exciting places to spend leisure time.
Dinner and a Show
The Sanctuary Restaurant is an inviting answer to the question ‘Where can I go for a relaxed evening in Kabulonga?’ The Sanctuary is a fine-dining restaurant that specialises in pan-Asian and continental food. It is also halal-certified. The menu is quite expansive, but the star of the show has to be the teppanyaki experience, as chefs prepare meat, fish and vegetables on a hot griddle right in front of diners. The chefs make a performance of the preparation, providing an exciting and flavourful way to close off an evening.
There’s so much more to do in Kabulonga than I could capture on paper. From vibrant morning markets and galleries to bubbles and cake and serene evenings, Kabulonga has it all and is ripe for exploration. The area draws you in with its ability to keep you entertained from day to night. Kabulonga is a reminder that you don’t have to force yourself to romanticise life in Lusaka; the city already has its own alluring pockets of romance.
